http://www.nwf.org/Get-Outside/Outdoor-Activities/Garden-for-Wildlife.aspx

http://www.mortonarb.org/?option=com_content&view=article&id=868&Itemid=6

Happy Gardening!

Gaylord Nelson

Imaging a time when it was perfectly legal for factories to spew black clouds of toxic into the air or dump tons of toxic waste into a nearby stream. Imagine a time when they could not be taken to court to stop it. Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson felt something needed to be done. He was concerned that an issue as important as our environment was not part of the conversation, so he created the first Earth Day.

In the 1960′s, Senator Nelson began several nationwide campaigns to increase environmental awareness. His efforts culminated in the first Earth Day rally held on Wednesday, April 22, 1970. It was an amazingly successful grassroots movement as 20 million people across the United States participated. According to Senator Nelson, “Earth Day worked because of the spontaneous response at the grassroots level. We had neither the time nor resources to organize 20 million demonstrators and the thousands of schools and local communities that participated. That was the remarkable thing about Earth Day. It organized itself.” Senator Nelson was later awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom for his role as founder of Earth Day.

The power of the movement and increased awareness eventually lead to national legislation such as the Clean Air Act and the Clean Water Act. Within five years, the EPA had banned the insecticide DDT and Congress passed the Safe Drinking Water Act and set emissions and efficiency standards for vehicles.

Earth Day was organized to promote the ideas of ecology, encourage respect for life on earth, and highlight growing concern over pollution of the soil, air, and water. It is now observed in 140 nations with outdoor performances, exhibits, street fairs, and television programs that focus on environmental issues.

Many environmental issues continue to plague us. These issues have become quite complicated as our knowledge of the Earth’s systems has grown. With this increased knowledge, the focus has shifted to creating sustainable lifestyles that can support healthier ecosystems; healthier food, air, and water. Here are a few ideas of things you can do to help:

• Plan and plant gardens that are beneficial for wildlife; birds, butterflies, and bees.
• Grow vegetables in your garden or on your patio.
• Conserve water resources by catching rain water in rain barrels for watering your plants.
• Learn about best practices for controlling “bad” bugs and other pests.
• Compost kitchen and yard waste.
• Plant a tree.
• Participate in an Earth Day event.

If you have questions or would like more information, please stop in or call us at Caan’s. We carry many things that can help you create a more sustainable garden experience.

Happy Gardening!

Mowing is a very routine part of lawn care. Best practices recommend it is best to cut grass between 2 ½ and 3 ½ inches tall.

This is the best time of year to either start a new lawn or patch bare spots. There are two methods you may wish to consider. Laying sod is a quick way to have instant lawn and can be a more expensive method. Another option is grow grass from seed. This takes more time to become established but can be very cost-effective.

Apply a pre-emergent weed and feed to grow a lush lawn and minimize weeds in your lawn only on an established lawn. Carefully follow package directions for best results. Do not use a weed and feed if you have just seeded or sodded your lawn. Keep it simple and just use a lawn fertilizer.

And finally, two types of insects feed on the tender roots of grass, Japanese Beetle grubs and European Chafers. It is important to make sure that your problem is actually grubs. If you see a dead patch in your lawn, dig up a few shovelfuls of soil at the edge of the bare spot and look for 1-inch long, C-shaped grubs.  As a control method, it is best to apply a product containing chorantraniliprole in late April or early May to kill the grubs that hatch in July and Aug.  To kill the grubs that have already hatched, use carbaryl (Sevin) or trichlorfon (Dylox) from March to mid-May or in the fall, September 1 to November 1.

If you have any questions or are looking for grass related products, please stop in. We are always ready to help you solve your problems.

Happy gardening!          

We have had some amazingly unseasonable temperatures lately! Gardeners are taking advantage of these beautiful days to get a jump on gardening activities. Trees and shrubs are just beginning to bud or are in full flower; magnolias, forsythia, maples, and many of the fruit trees. Spring bulbs are in full regalia, showing their lovely faces. The perennial plants are beginning to green, readying themselves for the summer season. We are experiencing the warmest spring ever. So far, it has been a beautiful spring!

Many gardeners, or those who are new gardeners, are confused about what to do with their plants. The desire is to protect these plants from the possibility of sub-freezing conditions. I contend, that the perennial plants in your garden, trees, shrubs, etc., will survive any conditions that mother nature will throw at them. The real issue at hand is how any food bearing plants will handle these unusual temperatures and a potential freeze. Maple syrup production has already been affected in detrimental way. I have heard that maple syrup production is down as much as 50% in some areas. If we get a severe cold snap at the critical time of budding and fruit growth, fruit losses will be affected in  a negative way, too.

Overall, don’t worry. Plants will survive the occasional weather anomalies. They tend to recover, despite all of the worrying we might do. You can still do your basic spring garden clean-up, prune back roses, some of the hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, etc. Hold off on pruning trees and shrubs now as they are just pushing new growth and can use all their energy for flowers, seeds and leaves. If you are worried about losing flower buds to frost on fruiting plants, here are a few tips.

Spread frost cloths over your fruit trees. When temperatures may fall to 20 or 30 degrees overnight, the coverings conserve the warmth and humidity that buds and leaves give off. This may prevent frost damage to the future blooms and fruits.

Fill gallon jugs with warm water and place several at the base of the tree. Be sure to leave at least an inch of headspace at the top of the jug and keep the lid loose, just in case the water freezes. The water jugs act as a heat reservoir, releasing heat gradually over the night to keep the temperature around the tree warmer.

String strands of traditional outdoor Christmas lights around the trees’ branches and trunk. Turn on the lights and leave them lit overnight. The light bulbs give off just enough heat to help raise the temperature to protect leaves and buds from freezing.

Spray your fruit trees with a continuous mist of water with the spray nozzle attachment on your garden hose. Water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and continuously spraying your trees with water ensures that the leaves hit by the water experience this temperature. While it is true that the water eventually freezes, the process of changing from liquid to solid releases energy, which in turn warms the plant.

Happy gardening!

Because the temperatures are so warm and the ground is not covered in snow and ice, this is an excellent time to cut back perennials and clean up debris in your garden. All of your ornamental grasses will thank you  by putting on their best show if you cut them back to about two inches above ground level. The one exception that I am aware of is Blue Oat Grass. This grass does not really like a good “haircut”. It is best to rake out, or pull out by hand, the dead foliage to clean it up.

Care of roses and hydrangeas becomes a bit more complicated. Pruning techniques are based on knowing the variety of rose and hydrangea you have in your garden. This is the reason why. For rose varieties, there are shrub roses, Rugosa roses, floribundas, teas, climbing, groundcover, landscape, etc., etc., etc. Hydrangeas are not as plentiful, but equally as confusing. These are the oak leaf, mopheads (macrophyllas), paniculatas, arborescens (Annabelles), and lacecaps. I will go over the basics of rose and hydrangea care separately.

Basics of rose care are as follows (from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension):

Here are some basic practices of pruning roses correctly in all gardens, regardless of type: 1) remove any canes that have been damaged by insects, diseases or storms; 2) remove one of two canes which may be rubbing one another; or 3) remove canes that are spindly or smaller in diameter than the size of a pencil. After pruning, according to these general recommendations, cut hybrid teas, shrub roses, florabundas, and grandifloras back to about 12 inches for large flowers.

Climbing roses and rugosas generally are pruned to renew plant vigor by removing the old canes since the most productive and finest blooms on are produced on canes that arise from the bottom of the plant the previous year. These newer canes produce more desirable growth and flowers. Prune canes back so they are maintained in the desirable shape and area.

When making cuts on the ends of branches, cut at 45 degree angles above an outside bud one-half inch above the bud with the lowest point on the side opposite the bud, but not below the bud itself. When removing branches, never leave stubs since these die and can cause problems on the plant later. Always remove branches by cutting to a lateral branch or bud, or back to the base of the rose plant.

Basic hydrangea care is as follows (from All About Hydrangeas):

1)      Mophead hydrangeas (blue and pink varieties) do not have to be pruned back – ever – unless they are very old. Removing dead stems is the only pruning that must be done for the health of the plant, and these can be removed at any time. Dead blooms can also be removed at any time.

2)      All dead stems should be removed from hydrangeas every year.

3)      After the plants are at least 5 years old, about 1/3 of the older (living) stems can be removed down to the ground each summer. This will revitalize the plant.

4)      In addition, if it becomes necessary to prune a plant to reduce its size, it may be cut back in June or July without harming the next year’s bloom.

This method is used for the arborescens (Annabelle types). These hydrangeas bloom on new stems. These hydrangeas bloom every single year, no matter how they are treated. The only time they cannot be pruned is in the spring when they are preparing to bloom. Because the blooms are so large, they may require staking to hold up the beautiful blooms.

Paniculatas (PG/Limelight types) can be pruned in the fall, winter, or spring to clean up the dead flowers and any crossing branches or stems. It is not necessary to prune them every year.

Paniculata hydrangeas are the only hydrangeas that can be pruned into a tree-form. If you are growing a paniculata as a tree, the developing trunk and main top branches should not be removed. If a tree form paniculata is cut or broken off close to the ground, it will grow back as a shrub unless the training and pruning is started again from the new shoots.

This is a great time to put down a slow release fertilizer, not a liquid fertilizer. Any fertilizer will push new growth. This may be a bit harmful to your plants given that we should be having temperatures no higher than 40 at this time of year. Who knows how long these warm temperatures will remain! We may get hit with a really cold snap which will impact any new growth that has not been hardened off. Slow release fertilizers are released at specific, warmer temperatures. They also provide nutrients to the plant gradually, over time.

This is a great time to divide your perennials or move trees and shrubs. Plants are still dormant and they will not be stressed by extremely warm temperatures. This will allow your plants to establish themselves in your garden during the entire growing season rather than only part of the season.

This information is only very basic. You may find additional information by searching various websites or by calling us at Caan Floral and Greenhouses.

Happy Gardening!

Because of the influence of the moon on our planet, this may seem to be a good method to plan garden activities. The lunar cycle lasts about 29.5 days and is broken down into 4 quarters, full moon, waning moon, and new moon, waxing moon. Lunar gardening “rules” are easy to remember. It is thought that moisture in the soil is highest when the moon is waxing, moving towards becoming a full moon. Planting may be more successful during this first lunar quarter, tides and soil moisture content are at their highest. The waning moon, from full moon to the last quarter, is when moonlight, tides and moisture content are at the lowest. It is thought this is the best time to till the soil because weed seeds will not germinate as well.

Determining the phase of the moon is easy. On clear evenings, take a look at the moon each evening. The full moon and new are obvious. If the moon has a crescent shape there’s a little trick to decide if the moon is waxing or waning. Imagining a vertical line against the crescent, if it forms a lower case “b” (think bright) then the moon is waxing. If it forms a lower case “d” (think dark) then the moon is in the waning quarter.

If  you would like to learn more about lunar gardening or moon phases, I have included a couple of links to follow:

http://www.thegardenerscalendar.com/Moon_Planting.asp

http://www.moongrow.com/moon_phase_gardening/gardening_by_moon_phases.html

http://stardate.org/nightsky/moon

Happy Gardening!

http://www.mosesorganic.org/conference.html

Happy Gardening!

It is exciting to see all the different varieties of seeds that we have coming in. The challenge is choosing between the tried and true or experimenting with new varieties. Deciding on and purchasing seeds is only the beginning of the process. You will also want to make sure you have the rest of your seeding needs and materials. I have listed a few items you may consider having on hand to successfully start your seeds and get ready for the coming growing season.

• Soil – a good, fine textured, sterile, lightweight potting soil that is best suited for germinating seeds and tiny seedlings.
• Containers – it is best to plant the seeds in individual cells or pots. If you plant all the seeds in one pot, the roots will tend to grow together. There is a greater chance of causing damage to the roots of individual plants when you are pulling them apart to transplant them. There are many different styles of starter pots and trays to choose from. Some starter kits include plastic lids that help keep the seeds and soil moist, allow light in, and retain heat for healthy root development.
• Some type of grow light, though not necessary, can make it easier for you if you do not have a good south facing window.
• Some type of waterproof, low heat source that can provide some bottom heat. This is a luxury item that will help your seeds germinate faster.

You will want to decide when to plant your seeds. All seed packages will list days from germination to harvest for vegetables and days from germination to flowering for flowers. This information is very helpful for deciding when to plant your seeds.  For example, the seed packet may list its tomato variety may ripen after 85 days. If you would plant the seeds on March 3rd, you would have a full grown plant bearing fruit by about the second week in May. I figured this by counting 85 days from March 3rd. You can use this same process for annual flower seeds. Just remember, indoor growing space may become the limiting factor for you because nearly full grown plants take up a fair amount of space.

On the most beautiful days, we can begin to work outdoors pruning fruit trees, ornamental trees, and shrubs. Because it is the end of the dormant season, diseases and insect pests are not an issue.  The general rule of thumb is to prune trees and shrubs that are grown for their foliage rather than their flowers now.  Here is a list of a few of those trees and shrubs:

Maple, Birch, Fruit Trees (Apple, Cherry, Plum), Alpine Current, Dogwood, Purple Leaf Sand Cherry, Smokebush, Sumac, Ninebark, and Barberry

The second pruning rule suggests you wait to prune those shrubs and trees that bloom before leaf out. They should be pruned immediately after blooming because they require the entire growing season to set flower buds for the next spring. This is a short list of those plants that bloom on last year’s growth.

Apricots, Chokeberry, Flowering Plum, Flowering Cherry, Crabapple Trees, Forsythia, Magnolia, Lilac, Cornelian Cherry Dogwood, Pussy Willow, and Serviceberry

If you feel the need to prune the above trees in the spring, bring the cut branches in to force the flower buds to open. You can enjoy these beautiful blooms indoors long before the flowers open on these plants.

These following trees can be pruned in the spring. Just be aware that they tend to “bleed”.  The “bleeding” is the sap running from the roots to the stems feeding the buds that will become flowers and leaves. The dripping sap does not harm the trees but it is unsightly.

Maple, Beech, Birch, Ironwood, Walnut, Butternut, and Box Elder

If you would like more information on pruning techniques and tools, here is a great link from Perdue that will help you;

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-4.pdf

Happy Gardening!

The Cornell Lab of Ornithology, the Audubon Society, and Bird Studies Canada would like you to participate in a study, collecting nationwide data about winter bird populations. Counting the birds in our yards is the key to making this possible.

Please visit this link for additional information on how to participate: http://www.birdsource.org/gbbc/press/2012GBBC_Feb6.pdf.

We have an excellent selection of feeders and resources to get you started. If you have questions about feeding birds in your yard, please visit us. We have experts available to answer your questions.

Happy Gardening!

The first speaker, Phil Peletari (Insect Diagnostic Lab, http://www.entomology.wisc.edu/diaglab), spoke about insect response to environmental stress. His focus was on how insects respond to environmental changes and  how stressed plants respond to insect pests.

The changing environment, both annually and over long periods of time, impact the health and survivability of both plants and insects. Pretty basic knowledge. The changing environment can apply to us as well if we think in terms of food resources, water resources, or even monetary resources to heat and/or cool our homes.

He stated the number one stress factor that impact insect numbers is food. If food resources are high, more plants to feed on, the insects will do well and numbers will rise. If food resources are low, insects will do poorly and numbers will decline. Other stress factors that impact insect success are extreme cold and heat at critical life stages, disease, and natural enemies (mostly other insects).

The number one stress factor for plants is drought or to little water. Other things which cause poor plant health are insect defoliation at critical stages of plant growth, wounds that allow diseases and insects to attack vital plant parts, compacted soils from construction, poorly chosen planting sites, incorrect use of chemicals (insect and weed control chemicals), climate change, and plant competition. These stresses can lead to higher disease rates and increased insect damage due to the reduced ability of the plant to respond to assaults on its health.

The second speaker was Brian Hudelson (UW Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab http://pddc.wisc.edu/staff.html). He shared information about disease problems with evergreens, though he stated these same diseases also effect most other plants. He explained that conditions causing high plant stress allow diseases to take hold and spread. These are many of the factors that can cause extreme plant stress; drought or flooding, extreme cold, high numbers of insects feeding on the plant, overcrowding of plants, over fertilization (particularly nitrogen), and pruning at stages of plant development which cause excessive growth.

Basically, plants under extreme stress are more prone to being attacked by disease and insect pests. These following recommendations will help you create an environment for happy plants and a more successful gardening experience.

• Keep your plants adequately watered. Give newly planted trees and shrubs 2″ of water per week, including rainfall. Established trees and shrubs need 1″ of water per week. Evergreens require appropriate watering until the ground freezes or we receive the first snowfall. This will help protect them from drying out in the winter.
• Plant the right plant in the right location. Make sure sensitive plants are placed in a protected area. For example, next to a building or house or in a sheltered garden space, out of the direct wind and cold. Many plants are salt sensitive, do not plant those near areas you will use de-icers in the winter. Some plants like it wet, place them in areas that have well drained, moist soils.
• Choose plants that are disease and/or pest resistant. We have many to choose from.
• DO NOT apply herbicides on or near plants you want to keep in your garden or yard. Herbicides that come into contact with your plants may cause severe damage, increasing stress, and eventual death. Some lawn care herbicides may also impact the plants you cherish, specifically 2,4-D and Dicamba.
• Fall mulching will help insulate your plants through the winter. If you have sandy soils, recommended mulch depth is no more than 4″. If you have clay soil, recommended mulch depth is 2″, maximum.
• When pruning plants, particularly infected plants, disinfect cutting tools with a 70% alcohol solution or over the counter spray disinfectant.
• Do not over fertilize. High nitrogen (N) application causes excessive new plant growth. The increased growth reduces energy the plant can put into fighting disease.
• Feed your soils. Healthy soil is full of organisms; small animals, worms, insects and microbes that thrive when the other soil elements are in balance. These organisms are essential for plant growth. They help convert organic matter and soil minerals into the vitamins, hormones, disease-suppressing compounds and nutrients that plants need to grow. Healthy soils will create an environment for healthy plants.

Here is a link that will give additional advice about gardening in Wisconsin, http://pddc.wisc.edu/staff.html.

Happy Gardening!